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If the Dolomites have a living room, this is it. The Passo di Giau is only 2,236 metres, but the mountains around it behave like they're three thousand — and they lean in close, as if they want to see who's driving through. From Selva di Cadore the SP638 climbs through cool forest, then breaks free onto open slopes where the hairpins begin in earnest — smooth, rhythmical, beautifully cambered bends that are pure joy whether your engine is you or a Alfa Romeo. And then you crest, and the world turns to theatre. Ra Gusela towers directly over the pass like a stone rocket; the Lastoni di Formin wall stretches to the horizon; Nuvolau and Averau stand sentinel; and on a clear evening the whole ring catches fire in alpenglow while you sit at the rifugio with a hot chocolate wondering how any of this is real. The descent toward Cortina d'Ampezzo is one of the great flows of the Dolomites: long curves, grazing meadows, the Croda da Lago peeking over the shoulder of the road, and then the queen of the Dolomites herself spread out in the valley below. On race days the Giro turns this pass into a cathedral of tifosi; on an ordinary Tuesday it's yours alone. The Giau is the Dolomites distilled — one pass, two valleys, a dozen peaks, and an hour of driving you'll be telling people about for years. Do it at dawn if you can. Do it at sunset if you can't. Just do it.
From the road


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