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Great Dolomites Road (SS48, Bolzano → Cortina) - Italy

by @EpicRides

ScenicMountain
Distance114.6 km71.2 mi
The ride

Some roads get famous and you arrive suspicious. The Great Dolomites Road isn't one of them — it earns every word of its reputation before you've even left Bolzano behind. The SS48 starts gently, orchards and vineyards giving way to pine forest as the valley narrows toward the Karerpass. Then, at Lago di Carezza, the Latemar stops you cold — emerald water, pale rock towers, and you haven't even reached the first real climb yet. Vigo di Fassa slides by in a blur of flower-decked balconies, and then the road tilts upward: Canazei, and the long, steady ascent of the Passo Pordoi. Twenty-three hairpins, each one framing a slightly more outrageous view of the Sella and the Marmolada, until the world opens at 2,239 metres and you want to laugh out loud. The Fausto Coppi monument, a coffee at the rifugio, and that enormous, vertiginous glance down the eastern wall you just climbed. Beyond Pordoi the road dances. Arabba flashes by in a heartbeat of Italian color, and then it's up again — Falzarego, with the Tofane looming like a cathedral and the old war tunnels cutting clean through the rock. Every gallery spits you back out into another postcard. On a bike you live in second and third gear; in a car the chassis breathes, the engine note echoes off the walls, and the steering never stops talking. And then Cortina appears, all elegance and pale peaks, and you realize you've been smiling for two hours straight. This isn't a drive — it's the greatest hits of the Dolomites on one tank of fuel. Go early in summer, or better yet in late spring or autumn when the buses sleep. Take your time. Stop at every belvedere, because the road will still be there tomorrow — and you'll want to drive it again.

Photos

From the road

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