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Amalfi Coast (SS163, Positano → Amalfi → Ravello) - Italy

by @EpicRides

ScenicCoastal
Distance23.9 km14.9 mi
The ride

Let's be honest about two things up front: yes, the Amalfi Coast is famous, and yes, in summer it can be a traffic jam with a view. And still — still — the moment Positano spills down its cliff in a cascade of pastel domes, you will forgive every single minute of it. The SS163 is barely a road at all: it's a shelf. A limestone ledge glued to the cliff between the mountains and the Tyrrhenian, hung with lemon groves on one side and a very long drop on the other. You slide out of Positano through tunnels carved by hand in the 1850s, burst back into sunlight above Praiano, and from then on every bend is a postcard that outdoes the last. The sea is so blue it looks retouched. It isn't. Praiano, then the fjord of Furore — stop, look down, disbelieve — then Amalfi herself: the duomo, the piazza, the buzz of a thousand scooters, and the smell of lemons and salt and espresso. Leave the car, wander the alleys, eat something involving anchovies. And then, the cherry: climb to Ravello. Up you go, away from the coast, through vine terraces, until the whole glittering coastline unfurls below you from Villa Rufolo's gardens — the single greatest balcony in Italy. Go early, go in May or October, and go slowly. Buses squeeze past with centimetres to spare and the locals drive like they were born on this road — because they were. Flash a smile, take your time, let the Amalfi Coast happen to you. Some clichés are clichés because they're true.

Photos

From the road

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